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Summary
Summary
Here are more than 200 delicious seasonal recipes from the upper Midwest -- from the lakes, the forest, and farmlands, as well as from the small towns and cities of Minnesota, Wisconsin in, Iowa, Michigan, and North Dakota. The wonderful variety of dishes tells the story of the Scandinavian, German, East European, Scottish, and Welsh farmers who first settled here, cultivating the rich farmlands and developing the milling industry and the dairy cooperatives. At threshing time, barn raisings, and hog killings, robust dishes satisfied the appetite, and miners and loggers (from Finland to Slovenia) relished the hearty foods of boardinghouses and cook shacks. Beth Dooley and Lucia Watson have brought together all the strands of this colorful Northern Heartland history by giving us the foods that tell the story. They have tempered the recipes for today's appetites and developed new creations that make the most of the indigenous produce -- the kinds of fresh and flavorful dishes that devotees of Lucia's popular restaurant in Minneapolis have been enjoying since it first opened in 1985. Here is a sampling: -- From their Milling and Baking chapter -- Finnish Cardamom Coffee Bread, Lussekatter Buns, Swedish Limpa Rye, German Oven Pancake -- From The Communal Pot -- Roasted Vegetable Strudel, Thresher's Beef Stew, Sarma (Stuffed Cabbage Rolls), and Pasties (a delectable version of what is known as "the boardinghouse meal under a crust") -- From North Woods and Prairies -- Holiday Roast Wild Turkey, Grouse with Cranberry-Sage Butter, Woodcock with Wild Mushrooms -- From Deep Lakes and Swift Streams -- Baked Walleye with Asparagus and Fiddlehead Ferns, Pan-Fried Trout with Smoky Bacon and Hazelnuts, Spring Crappies with Morels -- From Backyard Gardens and Sacred Paddies -- Summer Tomato, Potato, and Eggplant Bake, winter Gratin of Pumpkin and Leeks, Wild Rice Pilaf with Dried Cherries and Walnuts In this part of America where people are separated by long distances, hospitality means good food. And Beth Dooley and Lucia Watson share the bounty by showing us how to prepare all the good things that make this region so special.
Author Notes
Beth Dooley is a writer and teacher
Lucia Watson is the well-known chef of Lucia's, and a 2004 James Beard Award nominee for Best Chef/Midwest. She lives in Minneapolis
Reviews (4)
Publisher's Weekly Review
Collaborating with writer Dooley, Minneapolis chef and restaurateur Watson offers both a stylish understanding of home cooking and a realistic perspective on its preparation. Wild game sausages are trendy; their version skips the labor-intensive stuffing of sausage casings. Instead, the authors recommend making grilled patties, and layering the smoky sausage with roasted red peppers and potato bread for a hearty sandwich. Though they usually choose seasonal ingredients native to the heartland, specialties such as toasted hazelnuts and fresh morels give their cuisine more sophistication than the typical Midwestern farm family cookbook. Sidebars of text culled from farm-town newspapers and old church or community cookbooks give perspective-and humor-to the book. Visitors to the Midwest can take away this cookbook as an inspiration to re-create the region's food, while natives can find plenty of family favorites tucked in among more modern dishes. This is the 14th volume in the Knopf Cooks American series. Photos not seen by PW. Better Homes and Gardens Book Club selection. (Oct.) (c) Copyright PWxyz, LLC. All rights reserved
Kirkus Review
This 14th entry in the Knopf Cooks American series is top- notch (even Knopf's trademark borzoi has gotten into the spirit, sporting a jaunty toque). Cookbook writer Dooley (Peppers, Hot and Sweet, not reviewed) and Watson, owner of an eponymous restaurant in Minneapolis, update regional favorites with sensible revisionism. Our guides present foods from Minnesota, Iowa, Wisconsin, upper Michigan, and eastern North Dakota that reflect varied northern and eastern European immigration, cold weather, long distances between homes, and--as in the case of a pliant white bread using leftover mashed potatoes--the sturdy, thrifty values for which the Midwest is known. Along with the clear, extremely functional recipes are bits of information about such local delicacies as lutefisk (preserved codfish brought over from Norway) and the ice cream sundae, which was invented in Two Rivers, Wis. One entire chapter is devoted to ``hot dishes''--one-dish meals popular for church suppers and other informal gatherings; and alongside the traditional chicken pot pie, Dooley and Watson offer innovations like roasted vegetable strudel. Even a standard leftover meat casserole is perked up with caramelized onions and cognac. Likewise, dairy and egg options include blintzes that would not have been out of place in a turn-of-the-century kitchen though pepped up with fresh corn in the batter and fresh basil in the ricotta and Parmesan cheese filling. Hearty, homey eating, imbued with today's wisdom. Even coastal snobs will be dashing to the kitchen. (75 b&w illustrations, not seen)
Booklist Review
"The Heartland," as defined by Minneapolis restaurateur Watson and author Dooley, is where "eating enhances one's ability to stay warm." Traditionally hearty foods have been somewhat defatted here to appeal to 1990s health demands; yet the more than 200 recipes remain true to their midwestern origins. Included are local cooks' reminiscences and the recountings of kitchen and regional traditions, such as the best uses for stale bread, Chippewa names of the months, and the process of maple sugaring. Certainly a collection that won't intimate fledgling kitchen cooks. ~--Barbara Jacobs
Library Journal Review
The "Northern Heartland" is the upper Midwest, a region rich both in resources, from wild game to wild rice, and in its ethnicity. Food writer Dooley and Watson, chef/owner of a Minneapolis restaurant, have compiled a wide variety of recipes, some homestyle and some elegant, some old and some new. The Scandinavian and Central European presence is well represented, but there are also recipes from more recent immigrants such as the Hmong. Writing in a graceful and relaxed style, the authors set the recipes in context, giving lots of cultural history and culinary lore along the way. Very readable, with a surprisingly diverse selection of recipes, this is highly recommended. [BH&G Book Club selection.] (c) Copyright 2010. Library Journals LLC, a wholly owned subsidiary of Media Source, Inc. No redistribution permitted.
Table of Contents
Acknowledgments | p. VII |
Introduction | p. IX |
Milling and Baking: Breads, Muffins, and Griddle Cakes | p. 3 |
Henhouse and Dairy: Chicken, Eggs, and Cheese | p. 55 |
Barnyard and Smokehouse: Farmhouse Meats | p. 105 |
Seasonal Kettle: Hot and Cold Soups | p. 139 |
The Communal Pot: One-Dish Meals | p. 163 |
North Woods and Prairies: Large and Small Game | p. 187 |
Deep Lakes and Swift Streams: Freshwater Fish | p. 211 |
Backyard Gardens and Sacred Paddies: Vegetables and Wild Rice | p. 239 |
Preserves and Pickles: Sweet and Savory Embellishments | p. 281 |
Come for Coffee: Cakes, Cookies, and Bars | p. 299 |
Pride of the Heartland: Pies, Puddings, and Sweets | p. 341 |
Index | p. 371 |