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Summary
Summary
We hung the walls with old French movie posters advertising the films of Marcel Pagnol, films that had already provided us with both a name and an ideal: to create a community of friends, lovers, and relatives that span generations and is in tune with the seasons, the land, and human appetites.
So writes Alice Waters of the opening of Berkeley's Chez Panisse Café on April Fool's Day, 1980. Located above the more formal Chez Panisse Restaurant, the Café is a bustling neighborhood bistro where guests needn't reserve far in advance and can choose from the ever-changing à la carte menu. It's the place where Alice Waters's inventive chefs cook in a more impromptu and earthy vein, drawing on the healthful, low-tech traditions of the cuisines of such Mediterranean regions as Catalonia, Campania, and Provence, while improvising and experimenting with the best products of Chez Panisse's own regional network of small farms and producers.
In the Chez Panisse Café Cookbook, the follow-up to the award-winning Chez Panisse Vegetables, Alice Waters and her team of talented cooks offer more than 140 of the café's best-recipes--some that have been on the menu since the day café opened and others freshly reinvented with the honesty and ingenuity that have made Chez Panisse so famous. In addition to irresistible recipes, the Chez Panisse Café Cookbook is filled with chapter-opening essays on the relationships Alice has cultivated with the farmers, foragers and purveyors--most of them within an hour's drive of Berkeley--who make it possible for Chez Panisse to boast that nearly all food is locally grown, certifiably organic, and sustainably grown and harvested.
Alice encourages her chefs and cookbook readers alike to decide what to cook only after visiting the farmer's market or produce stand. Then we can all fully appreciate the advantages of eating according to season--fresh spring lamb in late March, ripe tomato salads in late summer, Comice pear crisps in autumn.
This book begins with a chapter of inspired vegetable recipes, from a vivid salad of avocados and beets to elegant Morel Mushroom Toasts to straightforward side dishes of Spicy Broccoli Raab and Garlicky Kale. The Chapter on eggs and cheese includes two of the café's most famous dishes, a garden lettuce salad with baked goat cheese and the Crostata di Perrella, the café's version of a calzone. Later chapters focus on fish and shellfish, beef, pork, lamb, and poultry, each offering its share of delightful dishes. You'll find recipes for curing your own pancetta, for simple grills and succulent braises, and for the definitive simple roast chicken--as well as sumptuous truffed chicken breasts. Finally the pastry cooks of Chez Panisse serve forth a chapter of uncomplicated sweets, including Apricot Bread Pudding, Chocolate Almond Cookies, and Wood Oven-baked Figs with Raspberries.
Gorgeously designed and illustrated throughout with colored block prints by David Lance Goines, who has eaten at the café since the day it opened, Chez Panisse Café Cookbook is destined to become an indispensable classic. Fans of Alice Waters's restaurant and café will be thrilled to discover the recipes that keep them coming back for more. Loyal readers of her earlier cookbooks will delight in this latest collection of time-tested, deceptively simple recipes. And anyone who loves pure, vibrant, delicious fare made from the finest ingredients will be honored to add these new recipes to his or her repertoire.
Author Notes
Alice Waters is the visionary chef and owner of Chez Panisse in Berkeley, California. She is the author of four cookbooks, including Chez Panisse Vegetables and Fanny at Chez Panisse. In 1994 she founded the Edible Schoolyard at Berkeley's Martin Luther King Jr. Middle School, a model curriculum that integrates organic gardening into academic classes and into the life of the school; it will soon incorporate a school lunch program in which students will prepare, serve, and share food they grow themselves, augmented by organic dairy products, grains, fruits, vegetables, meat, and fish--all locally and sustainably produced.
Reviews (1)
Publisher's Weekly Review
Award-winning cookbook author (Chez Panisse Vegetables; Chez Panisse Menu Cookbook) and chef-owner Waters takes readers back to her highly lauded restaurant in Berkeley, Calif. This alluring 200-plus recipe collection is an innovative amalgam of Mediterranean, California, New American and Provenal dishes. Waters shares her Chez Panisse vision: that all of the restaurant's ingredients be certifiable as "organically grown" by the year 2000. A culinary purist, Waters devotes herself to cooking with fresh, seasonal, organic ingredients, relying upon a choice network of purveyors, producers, farmers, fishmongers and ranchers. The clear and incisive recipes range from simple (Fresh Mozzarella Salad) to elaborate (Headcheese, a jellied meat dish with one small pig's head and two pig's feet) and time-consuming (15-day Home-Cured Pancetta), with an emphasis on incorporating seasonal bountyÄfor example, Minestra Verdissima (spring); Venetian-style Pickled Sand Dabs (summer); Wild Nettle Frittata (autumn-winter); Spicy Baked Crab (winter). Despite Waters's militant stance on using organic ingredients and her exquisite attention to ingredient details, she suggests only two pantry essentials: kosher salt and quality olive oil. Aspiring to achieve a higher food karma, Waters successfully delivers a charmingly erudite yet accessible reference. (Sept.) (c) Copyright PWxyz, LLC. All rights reserved
Table of Contents
Preface | p. xv |
Chapter 1 Vegetables | p. 1 |
Garden Lettuce Salad | p. 6 |
Romaine Leaves with Anchovy Dressing | p. 8 |
Dandelion Salad with Mustard Vinaigrette | p. 9 |
Avocado and Beet Salad with Citrus Vinaigrette | p. 10 |
Shaved Asparagus and Parmesan Salad | p. 11 |
Artichoke, Cardoon, and Endive Salad | p. 12 |
Heirloom and Cherry Tomato Salad | p. 14 |
Spring Vegetable Bagna Cauda | p. 16 |
Grilled Endives with Sauce Gribiche | p. 18 |
Minestra Verdissima (A Very Green Soup) | p. 20 |
Tuscan Bread, Bean, and Vegetable Soup | p. 22 |
Garganelli Pasta with Fava Beans | p. 24 |
Morel Mushroom Toasts | p. 26 |
Wild Mushroom Pasta Handkerchiefs | p. 28 |
Pasta Dough | p. 30 |
Wood Oven--Baked Porcini Mushrooms | p. 32 |
Vegetable Side Dishes | p. 33 |
Spicy Broccoli Raab | p. 34 |
Artichoke Mashed Potatoes | p. 35 |
Creamy White Beans | p. 36 |
Celery Root Remoulade | p. 37 |
Crispy Pan-Fried Potatoes | p. 38 |
Garlicky Kale | p. 39 |
Pickled Beets | p. 40 |
Chapter 2 Eggs and Cheese | p. 41 |
The Perfect Hard-Cooked Egg | p. 44 |
Scrambled Eggs Panisse | p. 45 |
Wild Nettle Frittata | p. 46 |
Green Garlic Pudding Souffle | p. 48 |
Pizzetta with Farm Egg and Prosciutto | p. 50 |
Pizza Dough | p. 51 |
Crostata di Perrella | p. 52 |
Fresh Mozzarella Salad | p. 54 |
Baked Goat Cheese with Garden Lettuces | p. 55 |
Pan-Fried Stuffed Squash Blossoms | p. 56 |
Fresh Ricotta Baked with Herbs and Olive Oil | p. 57 |
Green Cannelloni with Ricotta, Yellow Tomatoes, and Basil | p. 58 |
Chapter 3 Fish and Shellfish | p. 61 |
Oysters on the Half Shell with Mignonnette Sauce | p. 65 |
Oyster Stew with Thyme and Fennel | p. 66 |
Salmon Caviar | p. 67 |
Gravlax and Cucumber Salad | p. 68 |
Jean-Pierre's Cured Salmon | p. 70 |
Slow-Cooked King Salmon | p. 71 |
King Salmon in Fig Leaves | p. 72 |
Saffron Pasta with Bottarga di Tonno | p. 73 |
Rare Yellowfin Tuna with Coriander and Fennel Seed | p. 74 |
Tuna Dumplings with Currants and Pine Nuts | p. 76 |
Tuna Confit with Green Beans and Shell Beans | p. 78 |
Rustic Pizza with Anchovies | p. 80 |
Simple Tomato Sauce | p. 81 |
Baked Pasta with Sardines and Wild Fennel | p. 82 |
Roasted Squid with Bread Crumbs and Oregano | p. 84 |
Aioli (Garlic Mayonnaise) | p. 85 |
Venetian-Style Pickled Sand Dabs | p. 86 |
Baked Scallops with Prosciutto | p. 88 |
Meyer Lemon Relish | p. 89 |
Fish and Shellfish Cakes | p. 90 |
Salted Atlantic Cod Baked with Tomatoes | p. 92 |
Spicy Baked Crab | p. 94 |
Basic Fish Stock | p. 95 |
Chapter 4 Beef | p. 97 |
Beef Carpaccio with Anchovies, Capers, and Parmesan | p. 100 |
Steak Tartare Croutons | p. 102 |
Cold Beef Tongue Salad with Salsa Verde | p. 104 |
Salsa Verde | p. 105 |
Rib Eye Steak with Marrow and Shallots | p. 106 |
Roast Beef Sirloin Sandwich | p. 108 |
Grilled Skirt Steak with Anchovy and Garlic Sauce | p. 110 |
Alice's Lovage Burgers | p. 111 |
Boeuf a la Ficelle with Horseradish Cream | p. 112 |
Horseradish Cream | p. 113 |
Grilled Tenderloin with Chanterelles, Garlic, and Parsley | p. 114 |
Braised Beef Cheeks in Red Mole | p. 116 |
Savory Herb Meatballs with Spaghetti | p. 118 |
Braised Beef Short Ribs with Gremolata | p. 120 |
Bollito Misto | p. 122 |
Bolognese Sauce | p. 124 |
Basic Beef Stock | p. 126 |
Basic Beef Reduction | p. 127 |
Chapter 5 Pork | p. 129 |
Headcheese | p. 134 |
Country Terrine with Pistachios | p. 136 |
Prosciutto, Spring Onion, and Artichoke Antipasto | p. 138 |
Pizza with Bacon, Onions, and Greens | p. 140 |
Fennel Sausage with Red Wine | p. 141 |
Smoky Garlic Sausage with Kale | p. 142 |
Catalan-Style Sausage and Clams | p. 144 |
Crepinettes with Swiss Chard | p. 146 |
Boudin Blanc | p. 148 |
Roast Suckling Pig | p. 150 |
Roast Pork Loin with Rosemary and Fennel | p. 151 |
Long-Cooked Pork Shoulder | p. 152 |
Red Wine-Braised Bacon | p. 153 |
Simple Cured Pork Chops | p. 154 |
Brine-Cured Pork | p. 155 |
Home-Cured Pancetta | p. 156 |
Chapter 6 Lamb | p. 157 |
Spicy Lamb Sausage | p. 160 |
Lamb Braised with Tomatoes and Garlic | p. 162 |
Grilled Boneless Lamb Leg with Olive Sauce | p. 164 |
Lamb Couscous with Turnips, Carrots, and Harissa | p. 166 |
Buttered Couscous | p. 168 |
Harissa | p. 169 |
Soupe au Pistou with Lamb Shanks | p. 170 |
Braised and Grilled Spring Lamb | p. 172 |
Warm Lamb Salad with Pomegranates and Walnuts | p. 174 |
Lamb Innards | p. 176 |
Chapter 7 Poultry | p. 177 |
Cured Duck Breast "Prosciutto" | p. 181 |
Shaved Foie Gras and Rocket Salad | p. 182 |
Pigeon Salad with White Bean Toasts | p. 184 |
Warm Duck Breast Salad with Green Olive Relish | p. 186 |
Duck Confit with Baked Figs | p. 188 |
Duck Rillettes Croutons with Chicory Salad | p. 190 |
Duck Legs Braised in Zinfandel | p. 192 |
Polenta with Duck Sauce | p. 194 |
Grilled Quail with Bread Crumb Salsa | p. 196 |
Bread Crumb Salsa | p. 196 |
Roast Chicken | p. 198 |
Pan-Fried Truffled Chicken Breasts | p. 199 |
Grilled Chicken Breasts au Poivre | p. 200 |
Pollo al Mattone with Lemon and Garlic | p. 202 |
Chicken Ballotine with Chanterelles | p. 204 |
Basic Chicken stock | p. 206 |
Chapter 8 Sweets | p. 207 |
Affogato | p. 213 |
Meyer Lemon Eclairs | p. 214 |
Comice Pear Crisp | p. 216 |
Panna Cotta | p. 217 |
Lindsey's Chocolate Cake with Sicilian Sabayon | p. 218 |
Honey-Pistachio Brittle Ice Cream with Lavender Sauce | p. 220 |
Cherry Clafoutis | p. 222 |
Angel Food Cake | p. 224 |
Plum and Pluot Galette | p. 226 |
Galette Dough | p. 227 |
Chocolate Espresso Custard | p. 228 |
Mulberry Sherbet | p. 229 |
Plum Upside-Down Cake | p. 230 |
Apple and Brandied Currant Tart | p. 232 |
Apricot Bread Pudding | p. 234 |
Peach Leaf Creme Brulee | p. 236 |
Wood Oven-Baked Figs with Raspberries | p. 238 |
Chilled Papaya with Lime | p. 239 |
Favorite Cafe Cookies: | p. 240 |
Pain d'Amande | p. 240 |
Butterscotch Batons | p. 240 |
Chocolate-Almond Cookies | p. 241 |
Cats' Tongues | p. 242 |
Orange-Currant Cookies | p. 242 |
Sources and Resources | p. 245 |
Bibliography | p. 251 |
Illustrations | p. 253 |
Index | p. 257 |