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Summary
Summary
From the James Beard Award winner, Top Chef Masters contestant, and acclaimed author comes this fun, festive, and highly caffeinated ode to the joys and rituals of the Southern breakfast, with over 125 recipes inspired by the author's popular restaurant in Oxford, Mississippi.
John Currence is one of the most celebrated and well-loved chefs in the South. Among his string of highly successful restaurants in Oxford, Mississippi, Big Bad Breakfast holds a special place in diners' hearts- It is a gathering place where people from all walks come together to share the most important meal of the day, breakfast. Southerners know how to do breakfast right, and Currence has elevated it to an artform- dishes like Banana-Pecan Coffee Cake, Spicy Boudin and Poached Eggs, and Oyster Pot Pie are comforting, soulful, and packed with real Southern flavor. Big Bad Breakfast is full of delicious recipes that will make the day ahead that much better--not to mention stories of the wonderful characters who fill the restaurant every morning, and a meditation on why the Southern breakfast is one of America's most valuable culinary contributions.
Author Notes
John Currence opened City Grocery in Oxford, Mississippi in 1992. Since then, the City Grocery Restaurant Group has opened a number of restaurants, including Ajax Diner, Nacho Mama's, Kalo's Tavern, Big Bad Breakfast, Boure, Lamar Lounge, The Main Event, and Snackbar. Currence is the recipient of the 2009 James Beard Award for Best Chef South and the Southern Foodways Alliance Guardian of the Tradition Award. He has appeared on television programs such as Parts Unknown , Mind of a Chef , Bizarre Foods , Treme , and Top Chef Masters and his writing has appeared in Food & Wine and Bon Appetit , among many others. He is a contributing editor for Garden & Gun magazine, a board member of No Kid Hungry (a project dedicated to eradicating childhood hunger in the United States), and an organizer and past board member of the prestigious annual Southern Foodways Symposium .
Reviews (2)
Publisher's Weekly Review
If the title is not enough of a hint, the very first recipe in this mega-hearty Southern-style collection tells you all you need to know about what chef Currence has in mind: it's sausage cinnamon rolls, a salty-sweet belly bomb topped with cream cheese icing. Big Bad Breakfast is also the name of a Currence restaurant, one of six he oversees in Oxford, Miss. Though Currence later settled in Mississippi, his New Orleans upbringing is evident throughout the 75 recipes presented here. Across nine chapters, covering everything including omelets, breakfast sandwiches, and morning cocktails, Currence brings on the flavor and forgoes the calorie count, with choices such as a Creole skillet scramble, a cheese-and-fried-chicken biscuit, and the Decatur Street gutter punk, with equal parts gin, heavy cream, and espresso. The section on pancakes offers two extremes side-by-side: peanut butter and banana pancakes, and shrimp and pickled onion crepes. Perhaps the ultimate gastronomic collision, though, comes in the Breakfast for Dinner chapter, in the form of a meal called the pylon (for pile on). It's a Belgian waffle, topped with hot dogs, chili, sweet slaw, cheddar, and a squadron of condiments. As filling as the foodstuffs, the pages themselves feel stuffed, with ingredient lists, directions, and the chef's entertaining stories all thrown together. This approach leaves room for the irresistible full-page color close-ups of each dish from photographer Ed Anderson. (Sept.) © Copyright PWxyz, LLC. All rights reserved.
Library Journal Review
James Beard Award-winning chef Currence (Pickles, Pigs, and Whiskey) owns several acclaimed restaurants in Oxford, MS, including City Grocery and Big Bad Breakfast. Recipes inspired by the latter establishment fill this exciting new collection, which features substantial dishes such as sausage cinnamon rolls, roasted potato and adobo frittata, Louisiana crab cake Benedict, and "The Pylon" (a Belgian waffle topped with hot dogs, chili, oyster crackers, and more). There are some basics-such as black pepper honey and fried eggs-but these are far outnumbered by creative entrees, sides, condiments, and beverages. Similiar to Lindsay Landis and Taylor Hackbarth's Breakfast for Dinner, this cookbook works for any time of day. VERDICT Essential for those who love hosting hearty breakfasts and brunches. © Copyright 2016. Library Journals LLC, a wholly owned subsidiary of Media Source, Inc. No redistribution permitted.
Excerpts
Excerpts
THE TEN COMMANDMENTS OF BREAKFAST 1. THOU SHALT EMBRACETH THE DAY. First, accept that every day is new, fresh, and unique. Position yourself in the kitchen with an attitude that reflects your solemn purpose: you are about to prepare THE MOST IMPORTANT MEAL OF THE DAY, likely for someone you care for (otherwise you would not be up and at 'em at the stove). 2. THOU SHALT HOLD NO MEAL HIGHER THAN BREAKFAST. Commit to raising this disregarded meal from the depths of neglect to the place of honor it deserves. Pledge to put the same effort and passion into preparing breakfast as you would lunch or dinner. In other words, make something other than just a plate of eggs. 3. THOU SHALT GET THY MIND RIGHT. This is fun, damn it. Plan ahead so you don't stress yourself out early in the morning: shop the day before, stock strong coffee, prep certain items in advance, and find some music that gets you going in the wee hours. All of these will make the chore at hand a little easier. 4. THOU SHALT SLATHER WITH BUTTER. It will not kill you (consumed in quantities within reason, that is). Just let go for a few minutes and enjoy life a little. No fat tastes better on toast with jelly or when cooking eggs (bacon fat included). 5. THOU SHALT ANOINTETH WITH BLACK PEPPER. Whenever pepper is called for in an ingredients list, use freshly cracked black pepper. (The only exception is when I specifically call for white pepper.) 6. THOU SHALT MAKE FROM SCRATCH. It will certainly take more time and effort, but the essence of Big Bad Breakfast is scratch cooking. It's what made grandmother's cooking "grandmother's cooking." As a matter of fact, I am certain that if my grandmothers and great-grandmothers had not succumbed to other, more natural afflictions, shame over what we accept as food these days would certainly have consumed each of them. 7. THOU SHALT USE RESTRAINT WITH INGREDIENTS. Lots of folks get the wrong idea about recipes and lean toward "the more flavors and ingredients I add, the more complex the end product." This could not be farther from the truth. The best cooking celebrates the elemental beauty of ingredients. You want to be able to taste everything in the dish, not create something that is just a muddle. 8. THOU SHALT SEEKETH LOCAL WHENEVER POSSIBLE. Honey, eggs, grits, bacon, sausage, jellies, coffee, flour--whatever it is, a local product is more often than not going to have a more singular character. Visit farmers' markets, bake sales, local farms, and locally owned grocery stores. 9. THOU SHALT NOT OVERCOOK. I am fascinated with the American worry about "undercooking things." Food can always be cooked more if it is not cooked enough, but YOU CAN'T FUCKING UNCOOK IT if you cook it too long. Granted, we shouldn't rub raw factory chicken on our toast right before we eat, but I have been making fresh mayonnaise and Caesar dressing with raw eggs for thirty-five years and nobody has ever been sick. Trichinosis is not carried by domestic pigs, and a piece of cooked pork that's still a little pink beats the crap out of a well-done, dried-out offering. Try the yolk runny, people. With a little salt, it transforms dishes from good to resplendent. 10. THOU SHALT REMEMBER THE SABBATH, BUT COOK FROM THIS BOOK EVERY DAY. You can make pancakes for your kids, freeze them, and rewarm them later. You can make a breakfast casserole or assemble sweet rolls the night before and just turn on the oven the next day. Breakfast is a fun meal, and most of the time, it doesn't require a ton of effort or mess. More often than not, it's just about clearing your eyes and committing to loved ones. Remember, breakfast is a joy, not a chore, and the possibilities are endless. It just comes at a weird time of day. And if that's the deal breaker for you, well, shit, make breakfast for dinner. Excerpted from Big Bad Breakfast by John Currence All rights reserved by the original copyright owners. Excerpts are provided for display purposes only and may not be reproduced, reprinted or distributed without the written permission of the publisher.
Table of Contents
| Acknowledgments | p. ix |
| Foreword | p. xi |
| Foreword | p. xii |
| Introduction | p. 1 |
| Chapter 1 The Welcome Basket | p. 6 |
| Sausage Cinnamon Rolls | p. 9 |
| Buttermilk Cake Doughnuts | p. 10 |
| Banana Pecan Coffee Cake | p. 13 |
| Sourdough English Muffins | p. 14 |
| Dried Fig Calas | p. 16 |
| Honey Buns | p. 18 |
| Blueberry Muffin Tops | p. 19 |
| Rum Raisin and Orange Scones | p. 21 |
| Monkey Bread | p. 22 |
| Baked Cornmeal and Buttermilk Doughnuts | p. 24 |
| Chapter 2 The Incredible, Edible, Omnipresent Egg | p. 26 |
| Fried Eggs Master Recipe | p. 30 |
| Scrambled Eggs Master Recipe | p. 31 |
| Poached Eggs Master Recipe | p. 31 |
| Big Bad Breakfast Egg Bake | p. 32 |
| "Broiled" Tomato Benedict | p. 35 |
| North Mississippi Eggs Benedict | p. 37 |
| Big Bad Breakfast Quesadilla | p. 38 |
| Louisiana Crab Cake Benedict | p. 40 |
| Chorizo Migas | p. 43 |
| Double-Boiled Eggs with Black Truffle | p. 45 |
| Shrimp Breakfast Enchiladas | p. 46 |
| "Double Oyster" Hangtown Fry | p. 48 |
| Summer Vegetable Quiche | p. 51 |
| Tugboat Galley Eggs and Dirty Rice | p. 52 |
| Eggs Sardou | p. 55 |
| Spicy Boudin and Poached Eggs | p. 57 |
| Hillbilly Eggs Hussarde | p. 61 |
| Shakshouka | p. 62 |
| Chapter 3 Omelets and Frittatas | p. 64 |
| French-Style Omelet Master Recipe | p. 66 |
| American-Style Omelet Master Recipe | p. 66 |
| French Omelet with Gruyère, Asparagus, and American Bacon | p. 68 |
| Big Bad Breakfast Chili and Cheese Omelet | p. 71 |
| The "J.Y.D." An American Omelet | p. 73 |
| Pepper and Chorizo Frittata | p. 74 |
| Roasted Potato and Adobo Frittata | p. 77 |
| Open-Faced Stewed Okra and Tomato Fritt-Omelet with Swiss Cheese | p. 79 |
| Herbolace, aka the Original Fines Herbes Omelet | p. 83 |
| Shrimp and Bacon Omelet with Soft Cheese and Pesto | p. 84 |
| Shrimp Fried Rice Omurice | p. 85 |
| Low Country Cast-iron Skillet Scramble | p. 87 |
| Creole Skillet Scramble | p. 91 |
| Roasted Mushroom Skillet Scramble | p. 92 |
| Yard Work Skillet Scramble | p. 93 |
| Chapter 4 Pancakes, Waffles, Crepes and other Things "Bready" | p. 94 |
| Silver Dollar and Short Stack Buttermilk Pancakes | p. 96 |
| Belgian Waffles | p. 98 |
| Peanut Butter and Banana Pancakes | p. 99 |
| Shrimp and Pickled Onion Crepes with Mornay | p. 101 |
| Multigrain Pancakes | p. 103 |
| Hoecakes | p. 104 |
| Toasted Oatmeal Pancakes | p. 107 |
| Fresh Corn Arepas | p. 108 |
| Mamie's Favorite French Toast | p. 109 |
| Brioche French Toast | p. 110 |
| German Pancake | p. 113 |
| Big Bad Breakfast Pain Perdu | p. 114 |
| Homemade Pop-Tarts | p. 115 |
| Chapter 5 BFO: Breakfast for Dinner (and Vice Versa) | p. 118 |
| Shrimp and Grits | p. 121 |
| Bruléed Grapefruit | p. 122 |
| Breakfast "Succot-hash" | p. 124 |
| Shrimp Gravy Biscuit Sundae | p. 125 |
| Crawfish Cakes | p. 127 |
| The Pylon | p. 129 |
| Roasted Tomato Cobbler | p. 130 |
| Crawfish Étouffée | p. 132 |
| Sautéed Trout, Soft Scrambled Eggs, Chanterelle Mushrooms | p. 134 |
| Oyster "Potpie" | p. 137 |
| Pork Tenderloin 662 with Crabmeat and Pecan Butter | p. 138 |
| Creamed "Chipped" Mushrooms on Toast | p. 140 |
| The Egg Bowl | p. 143 |
| Huevos Cocineros | p. 144 |
| Chapter 6 Cereals, Grains, and Other Pseudo-Virtuous Things | p. 146 |
| Homemade Vanilla and Double Almond Granola | p. 148 |
| Cinnamon and Citrus Oatmeal with Dried Black Mission Figs | p. 150 |
| Homemade Frosted Cornflakes | p. 151 |
| Homemade Grape-Nuts and Fruit Parfait | p. 152 |
| Grits and Collard Soufflé | p. 155 |
| Italian Sausage, Spinach, Hominy "Risotto" | p. 156 |
| Pork Posole | p. 159 |
| Creamed Toasted Barley with Nuts and Dried Fruit | p. 160 |
| Homemade Crispy Rice "Elvis" Treats | p. 161 |
| Chapter 7 Breakfast Sandwiches | p. 162 |
| Fried Chicken Cathead | p. 164 |
| With Signs Following | p. 167 |
| Monte Cristo | p. 168 |
| Mountey Crisco | p. 169 |
| Egg and Rice Burrito | p. 171 |
| Chicken Sausage Pancake Sandwich | p. 172 |
| Breakfast Croque Monsieur | p. 174 |
| Grilled Ham and Pimento Cheese Sandwich | p. 176 |
| Country Ham Egg Muffin | p. 177 |
| Egg Salad | p. 179 |
| Chapter 8 Sides, Condiments, Meats, and Extras | p. 180 |
| Black Pepper Buttermilk Biscuits | p. 183 |
| Garlic Cheese Grits | p. 187 |
| Cayenne Pepper Sauce | p. 188 |
| Louisiana Satsuma Jelly | p. 189 |
| Black Pepper Honey | p. 191 |
| Spicy Bacon Onion Jam | p. 192 |
| Fig Preserves | p. 195 |
| Pontchatoula Strawberry Jam | p. 196 |
| Red-Eye Gravy | p. 198 |
| Sausage Gravy | p. 199 |
| Tomato Gravy | p. 201 |
| Saucy Black Beans | p. 202 |
| Pimento Cheese | p. 204 |
| Mayonnaise | p. 205 |
| Strawberry Cream Cheese | p. 206 |
| Apple Butter | p. 207 |
| Raspberry Butter | p. 208 |
| Blackberry Mascarpone | p. 210 |
| Comeback Sauce | p. 211 |
| Breakfast Sausage | p. 213 |
| Chicken Sausage | p. 214 |
| Chorizo | p. 215 |
| Livermush | p. 217 |
| Gravlax (Lox) | p. 218 |
| Chapter 9 Eye-Openers | p. 220 |
| Grapefruit Mimosa | p. 223 |
| Michelada and a Shot | p. 224 |
| Ojen Frappé | p. 227 |
| Big Bad Breakfast Bloody Mary | p. 228 |
| The Idiot's Champagne Cocktail | p. 229 |
| Bloody Bull Shot | p. 230 |
| Advantage: Connors Celery Soda | p. 233 |
| Eggnog | p. 234 |
| Dad's Milk Shake | p. 237 |
| Peach Lassi | p. 238 |
| Uptown Express | p. 241 |
| Decatur Street Gutter Punk | p. 242 |
| 11:00 a.m. Kickoff | p. 243 |
| Falling Down Brown Cow | p. 245 |
| Donkey Punch | p. 246 |
| The Vacation Wife | p. 248 |
| About the Author | p. 251 |
| Index | p. 253 |
