Publisher's Weekly Review
In this excellent debut cookbook, New York City chef Kluger presents accessible, flavorful recipes adapted from those he serves at Loring Place, his Greenwich Village restaurant. Kluger excels in explaining cooking techniques, and some of the pro tips he shares include roasting vegetables on a rack in the oven to keep them from steaming on the bottom (as with his roasted cauliflower with a peach-apricot puree and nut vinaigrette); braising vegetables in their own flavor-enhancing juices rather than water; and coating baked croutons with grated Parmigiano-Reggiano so they won't get soggy in a panzanella. Kluger's recipes ask "why not?" and answer in ways that make sense, like sweetening a barbecue sauce with carrots and repurposing pickling brines in vinaigrettes and pastas (as with the pickled green tomatoes that dress the cavatappi with corn and chanterelles). Throughout, he pays respect to his mentors--Danny Meyer, Jean-Georges Vongerichten, Tom Colicchio, and the late Floyd Cardoz--as he explains the techniques he's learned from them, often highlighted in his "Takeaways" sidebars. With a refreshingly earnest approach to cooking, this volume will prove to be an asset to cooks of all skill levels. (Oct.)
Booklist Review
In his first cookbook, Kluger nails the concept of flavor profile, and leaves readers with a "takeaway" in each of his 100-plus recipes, whether pairing unusual flavors, spotlighting a single element, or boosting a technique. And jaded home chefs, filled to the brim with avocado toast and grain bowls, just might be entranced. Kluger's a fan of chef Tom Colicchio's component cooking, dividing a recipe into a series of elements that can be made in advance, then assembled as needed. Recipes brightly bring in new combinations: corn soup with spiced popcorn, butterhead lettuce with cashew vinaigrette, roasted portobellos with pecorino vinaigrette, raisin-stuffed pork loin. Yet the most significant bits are those takeaways, like mingling hot and cold in one dish; Adding sugar to the salt used in curing meat; Creating stock with a simple method that results in both stock and a whole, cooked chicken; Spraying ready-to-wilt crudités with a water-based mix of kombu and orange. And on and on. The handful of techniques that are photographed upfront will steady any fledgling cook's case of nerves.
Library Journal Review
James Beard Award-winning chef Kluger delivers a debut cookbook that is likely to become a kitchen staple. Kluger adapts his restaurant recipes and techniques into an approachable volume for home cooks that is equally sophisticated and informative. Recipes emphasize bold flavors and seasonal, earthy ingredients. They are unique yet familiar, and Kluger's passion and confidence in these dishes is evident. Equal attention is given to sharing transferable skills and ideas that are accessible to all levels. Every recipe includes a Takeaway where Kluger highlights a technique, flavor, or component to apply beyond his dish. The Takeaways demystify what makes some classics, such as crackly potatoes and duck confit, so delicious. The book also includes straightforward instructions to elevate familiar methods like roasting vegetables. This resource will appeal to both seasoned and beginner cooks for its insight into a distinguished chef's pantry and deceptively simple flavor-packed recipes. Readers who want to continue exploring flavors may enjoy Nik Sharma's Season: Big Flavors, Beautiful Food. VERDICT An indispensable collection of flavorful recipes and approachable cooking techniques.--Kate Bellody, SUNY New Paltz
